Pattern: Belcarra by Sewaholic Fabric: Cotton Gauze “Terrazzo Night by Atelier Brunette” from Guthrie & Ghani Little Bits: 100m Gutermann sew all thread
Size: 8/8/2 (Graded from size 8 down to 2 between waist and hips) Version: View B Mods: None!
It’s a light and airy easy to wear top. The length of the top is spot on however the neckline is a bit wide for me. I prefer a neckline slightly more scooped downwards rather than wide across the shoulder. I think I would make a variation of this top again, however, I would make that alteration to the neckline. Just bringing the neckline in a tad.
This was lovely fabric to work with. Not slippery at all, or thick, just a nice light but still stable material to work with. I would definitely like to use cotton gauze again. I am also interested to see how another cotton gauze compares to this one. It wasn’t a cheap fabric and while I love the print on the shirt I think the fabric was deserving of a more intricate or beautiful pattern rather than the more basic tee-shirt shape I chose to make.
Pattern: Stella Hoodie by Tilly and the Buttons Fabric: Marble Effect Teal Loopback Cotton Jersey Fabric (1.8m) + Teal Loopback Cotton Jersey Fabric (0.6m) from Guthrie & Ghani Little Bits: 100m Gutermann sew all thread
Size: 8 Version: N/A Mods: Lengthed 5cm + FBA of 6.4cm (1.6cm per side)
I have so much love for this project. Both the pattern and the material are absolutely wonderful. I bought the ‘Stretch’ book from Tilly and the Buttons because comfy cozy snuggly clothes? Yes please! Before you carry on reading I should point out I’ve not received any sort of payment or commission for this post. I’m gushing on for ages about it purely based on my enjoyment of sewing this!
Firstly, it is such a well-written pattern. The instructions are incredibly clear and the pictures are beautiful! Each step is laid out in easy to understand terms and anything that could be a bit tricky is explained in even greater detail. It’s so nice to just be able to confidently follow the next step, not wondering if you’re about to ruin your project. It’s also printed on lovely thick paper so you don’t have to worry about it disintegrating into shreds of tissue paper after opening it a few times!
Everything comes together perfectly and the fit is spot on. I don’t think there was even a single point of frustration while making this top. This is easily my favourite hoody now!
I used a gorgeous marble effect jersey for the main body of the sweater and this really lovely matching teal jersey for the sleeves and hood lining. For the hoody ties, I used a strip of the accent colour.
Will there be another?
There might already be one in the works.. so yes! I intend to have a pile of these made in all sorts of soft and fluffy fabrics. If you haven’t made one yet I highly recommend it. Although I’m sure you have realised that by now!
Pattern: Kalle by Closet Case Fabric: Lost At Sea Navy Blue Viscose Fabric from Guthrie & Ghani (1.2m) Little Bits: 100m Gutermann sew all thread, interfacing, buttons
Size: 8 Version: View A Mods: Lengthed front & back of view A by 10cm
Pirate Kalle – Side view
Pirate Kalle – Close up view
Pirate Kalle – Back view
I absolutely LOVE my first Kalle and before I’d barely even worn it I was already making plans for this one.
When I saw this fabric on Guthrie & Ghani I immediately knew it needed to be a Kalle. A lovely, billowy Kalle with pirate ships on it! Ok, so maybe they are just supposed to be normal ships but I always think pirate ships when I see them…
Like a good sewer, I prewashed my fabric and interfacing. The latter I slightly regretted because I remembered to do it AFTER I’d cut out all the dried fabric pieces and had to wait until the interfacing had dried to iron it on for step 1! I suppose it’s better, in the long run, to make sure the interfacing won’t shrink. It’s so frustrating when you just want to jump on the sewing machine!
Initially, I lay my pieces out as suggested by the pattern. I then sit and rearrange them until I’ve made the absolute best use of fabric I can think of. It’s a nice little sense of achievement to end up with a single larger piece leftover rather than scraps. I did start to wonder, what am I going to do with all these leftovers that are piling up… So I thought, hey, I’ll be clever and order less this time. Turns out 1.2m for a lengthened view A (which calls for 1.8m before my extension) is a wee bit of a stretch.
Somehow I managed to make it work with the scariest, smallest amount of leftovers I’ve ever had. I needed to ditch the full collar I’d originally planned and swapped in the band collar but I still managed my full hidden button placket! My hidden button placket was the last piece to cut out and I was fully mentally prepared to somehow cut it using two pieces of fabric and sew them together but my last piece ended up being EXACTLY the length it needed. No joke, I didn’t need to trim any off the top or bottom, it was the perfect length.
Would I try this again with 1.2m, probably not no… maybe 1.3m or 1.4m 🙂 That’s another thing I love about buying from Guthrie & Ghani, they sell in 10cm increments so you aren’t forced to buy a full metre when you don’t need it.
What are lifelines? They allow you to safely and easily go back to a previous line of knitting.
If you’ve dropped stitches you can’t recover, or if you realise the item is not the right size you’ll be grateful for them. It provides a nice little safety net that you can rip back to.
Typically this is done by threading a contrasting bit of yarn through a row. It can be difficult to stop knitting to thread a lifeline through. I knew a lifeline provided a safety net but I still seem to put it off for ages. I’d rather just be knitting!
The quicker, easier, minimal effort way?
If you use interchangeable needles you already have a very handy tool at your disposal. You can add lifelines almost effortlessly while still knitting!
Grab yourself a second interchangeable cable, the same length as the one you’ve been using, and a couple of cable end caps. Twist one of the needles off the live cable and pop an end cap on. Make sure the cap goes on the side with the end of the row.
Put that needle on your new cable with the second end cap to save your stitches from falling off the other side. You now have two cables, each with a needle on one end and an end cap on the other. Using the new empty cable knit across your next row, leaving the original cable in place. When you are done the row transfer the second needle to your new cable and pop its end cap on the original cable.
Now you have a lifeline built in and ready to be pulled out later. Or otherwise, it’s ready to have the needles just popped back on the end should you have to rip back!
Pattern: Kalle by Closet Case Fabric: Crepe // “Bouquet Des Fleurs” from Guthrie & Ghani (1.8m) Little Bits: 100m Gutermann sew all thread, interfacing, buttons (etsy, from ages ago and can’t remember shop name sorry!)
Size: 8 Version: View A but with shirt collar Mods: Lengthed front & back of view A by 10cm
This top is incredible. Kalle is very rewarding to sew and the end result is a beautifully drapey easy to wear shirt. This was a lot of firsts in sewing techniques for me. My first collar, first yoke style shirt, and first button band. Of course, because apparently, I don’t like to go easy on myself, I also did my first hidden button placket. The pattern was very easy to understand and I somehow got through all of it with results that even I couldn’t nitpick! I knew as soon as I was done I was going to make another.
I have to say the scariest bit was probably the burrito rolling method of attaching the yoke. It’s clever, and I had already done a similar thing when sewing facing to the neckline of a shirt, but it feels so unnatural. Like I’m about to sew all my hard work into an enclosed roll of despair.
The only bit of the pattern I remember having an issue with was the sleeves. It doesn’t say in the printed pattern that you unfold the freshly pressed sleeve & only sew one layer to the shirt, then fold over the other half to the inside, where it then ends up hiding the seams. I won’t go into more detail here because the guides Heather from Closet Case pattern has written are excellent and well worth a read.