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Save your knitting! How to easily add lifelines

What are lifelines? They allow you to safely and easily go back to a previous line of knitting.

If you’ve dropped stitches you can’t recover, or if you realise the item is not the right size you’ll be grateful for them. It provides a nice little safety net that you can rip back to.

Typically this is done by threading a contrasting bit of yarn through a row. It can be difficult to stop knitting to thread a lifeline through. I knew a lifeline provided a safety net but I still seem to put it off for ages. I’d rather just be knitting!

The quicker, easier, minimal effort way?

If you use interchangeable needles you already have a very handy tool at your disposal. You can add lifelines almost effortlessly while still knitting!

Grab yourself a second interchangeable cable, the same length as the one you’ve been using, and a couple of cable end caps. Twist one of the needles off the live cable and pop an end cap on. Make sure the cap goes on the side with the end of the row.

Put that needle on your new cable with the second end cap to save your stitches from falling off the other side. You now have two cables, each with a needle on one end and an end cap on the other. Using the new empty cable knit across your next row, leaving the original cable in place. When you are done the row transfer the second needle to your new cable and pop its end cap on the original cable.

Now you have a lifeline built in and ready to be pulled out later. Or otherwise, it’s ready to have the needles just popped back on the end should you have to rip back!

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Knitter Natter : Brighton
Saturday, 10th Aug 2013

Knitter Natter : Brighton

Want to find out more? Register your interest below:

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I am planning a knitting event in Brighton on Saturday the 10th of August and would love you to join us!

Knitter Natter is a free event with cake, competitions, and knitting (of course!) with more details to be announced soon!

If you think you might be interested, enter your email in the form above. I will be in touch soon with more details!

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How the contiguous construction works

After my last post where I raved about how wonderful and amazing contiguous is I realised it could probably do with a bit further explanation and have made a (not so) fancy but hopefully helpful diagram showing how the construction works.

The example below shows a sweater being knit top down and in the round. The view shows as if laid flat, with a sleeve cap on each side and the neckline in the center. Each of the plus symbols represents an increase.

Contiguous construction (knitting in the round)

Ready to knit a contiguous sweater? Why don’t you try the Summer Dawn Cardigan. A gorgeous lightweight cardi with a beautiful but simple to knit lace style back. The instructions are very clear and there is plenty of help available if you need it.

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Knitting contiguous sweaters is the way forward

I have recently discovered a style of sweater construction called contiguous. It is a very clever method developed by Susie Myers and in my opinion helps obtain a perfect shoulder fit with much less fuss than some other methods. I still do love my raglans but contiguous allows for a whole different approach and most importantly (for me) still means no seaming and the ability to try it on and check the shoulder fit as I go.

How does it work? In a nutshell, the construction is done by casting on for the neckline and continuing to increase every row at the shoulder seams until you’ve achieved shoulder width. If you are used to a raglan construction it can be a bit confusing the first time you try it as it is unusual to see the shoulder seam grow horizontally along your shoulder and not starting the sleeve until later on.

After you’ve knit enough rows so that the sweater is nearly* at the edge of your shoulders you can completely relax about the front and back fitting well and move on to increasing for the sleeve caps. The sleeve caps will have increases at either edge of them on every row for the first section and then slowing down the rate by increasing every other row.

* I say ‘nearly’ to the end of your shoulders because if you do work to the edge of your shoulders you will end up with puffy topped sleeves. Instead if you picture an invisible line running up from your underarm (so the width of your back excluding your arms), this is where you want to stop. If you look at the picture at the top of the post you’ll see where the shoulder seam stops and the sleeve cap begins.

I find this construction gives a lot of confidence in fit before you’ve committed very much time to it. With raglan you increase every other row on front, back and sleeves which makes it more awkward to adjust one or the other without skewing the nice diagonal seam it forms. Again, raglan will always have its place for me but I definitely see a lot more contiguous sweaters in my future!

If this method sounds at all confusing, don’t worry, it will all become clear once you’ve given it a try. If you’re interested in trying this method I’ve recently released Summer Dawn, my first contiguous style pattern and whether it’s your first or fifteenth contiguous sweater be sure to come join us in the knit along on Ravelry!

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Summer Dawn – Knitting Pattern

A fingering or sport weight cardi knit top down, with contiguous set in sleeves, waist shaping and two sleeve options (elbow and full length). It is mostly stockinette to the front and on the back is an easy to work lace pattern. The cardigan is worked in a top down method called contiguous which means no seaming or sewing on sleeves later as it will all be done as one piece.

Summer Dawn - Andrea Black's designs - Knitting pattern

Summer Dawn - Andrea Black's designs - Knitting pattern

The pattern is available for £5.50 and will be delivered in PDF format.
Buy the pattern here
Or if you are on Ravelry you can buy it here.

The fit: It is designed with no ease, giving enough stretch for a light under layer like a tshirt or tank top. If you would like the sweater to be less fitted than the example, choose one size larger than your usual high bust measurement.

The example: The sweater in the pattern is the 34” size and is shown on myself with a 35” high bust measurement. Always choose the size based off your high bust measurement NOT your full bust measurement. Your high bust measurement is the width across your body directly under your underarms. This will give the best fit for neckline/shoulders, and all over body fit. If your full bust is substantially larger and would cause the sweater to be too tight then adding bust darts are the best solution to keep the overall fit exactly as you want it.

The yardage:
Elbow Length Sleeves: 815 (892, 955, 1043, 1105, 1184, 1261, 1330)yds / 745 (815, 874, 954, 1011, 1082, 1153, 1216)m fingering / sport weight yarn
Long Sleeves: 951 (1026, 1089, 1184, 1248, 1329, 1410, 1479)yds / 869 (938, 996, 1083, 1141, 1215, 1289, 1352)m fingering / sport weight yarn

High bust measurement: To measure your high bust run the tape measure around your body directly underneath your underarms and above your actual bust. Choose the nearest size (rounding down) if you would like it to fit as in the examples. Go up a size if you’d like a looser fit.