Choosing the right size to make is one of the most important things you can do.
If you have a large bust and chose a size using that measurement then it is unlikely you will get a good fit in the neckline and shoulders, and that area will end up being oversized. If you have a larger bust, you should always choose the size based on your high bust measurement. You can then add any alterations needed to make your full bust fit as well, such as an FBA for sewing or short rows for knitting.
Full Bust: What you would normally think of as just ‘bust’. It is the measurement around the largest part of your chest.
High Bust: This is the measurement around your body, directly under your underarms.
If you do not have a large bust and clothes normally fit you without having to size up for your chest then you can just use your normal bust (full bust) measurement when choosing a size.
If you have a large bust you might find you typically have to size up in clothing to get it to fit over your chest. When you make your own clothing, the better way to do this is to make the size the rest of your body needs (i.e. the size based off your High Bust) and then do an adjustment for your Full Bust. This means your shoulders and neckline will fit perfectly because they haven’t been made larger to account for a bigger bust. In this case, you would do a FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) which is usually straightforward and will not change your neckline or sleeve size.
Now that you’ve chosen the proper size to make sure the neckline, shoulders and bust sized properly you are on the right track to a successful fit!
We’re having a Sew-Along! Join us from the 10th – 19th of May. I’ve put together lots of detailed videos to guide you through making a Josie and we’re going to have our own little community hub where our group can share progress with each other.
Although there will be a general timeline of steps that we go through together don’t worry if you are going at a different pace! It will be a very laid back journey with lots of help for whenever you’re ready for it. Visit this page to sign up for the Sew-Along: https://www.experimentalspace.com/josie-blouse-sew-along/ Hope to see you there!
Pattern:Casey Sweater by Experimental Space Fabric: Sloths in Lilac French terry from Lilly and Mimi Fabric Shop Little Bits: 200m Gutermann sew all thread, 3x 19mm Prym cover buttons
Size: Cara (35) Mods: None
I forgot to share my Sloth Casey with you! These adorable little guys made for a very sweet and snuggly Casey and I’m totally in love with the buttons. The sloth material is a medium French Terry and the contrasting fabric is a t-shirting material. I made the buttons using cover buttons and decided to use their cute little faces for the buttons and I love how it turned out!
It makes me so happy to wear this one. Now I can sit around being slothy on the weekends in my slothy sweater.
French seams are my favourite way to enclose seams on lightweight woven fabrics. It only takes a few extra steps and the finish on the seams is well worth the effort.
I’ve created a video demonstrating French Seams and I’ve also written it out into four easy steps just beneath the video if you prefer. Apologies it is in portrait mode, I originally created it for demonstrating on Instagram but thought it could also be of use here! The pattern mentioned in the video is the Evelyn Blouse.
Four easy steps to get French Seams
1. Place the layers wrong side together.
The first seam you make will be visible on the outside of the garment, but don’t worry, the final steps hide this away.
2. Sew a 1/4″ seam.
3. Press & turn.
Open up the piece and press the seam to one side. It doesn’t matter which side at this point. Then turn the piece RS together and press, making sure the seam is right on the edge of the fabric.
4. Sew a 3/8″ seam.
Now the seam will only be visible from the wrong side of the fabric. Press the finished french seam to the back.
Note: You can end up with a slightly smaller finished French seam by sewing a 3/8″ seam during step 2, trimming this to 1/4″ and then sewing a 1/4″ seam for step 4. I don’t do it this way around because I find sewing the second seam at 1/4″ often means stray threads from the fraying fabric edge are more likely to peek through to the right side of the fabric.