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Penny Dress by Sew Over It

Pattern: Penny Dress by Sew Over It
Fabric: Viscose from C&H (on sale for £8/m!)
Little Bits: 100m Gutermann sew all thread

Size: 8
Version: NA
Mods: No buttons. Chose to sew the button band shut instead. Hand stitched down each row of existing button band stitching to attach the 2 bands together.

The pattern

I chose to purchase the PDF pattern for this one. I hadn’t done that before and I was intrigued to see what that process was like. I’m not sure how it is elsewhere but buying PDF patterns from Sew Over It was very easy. Plus the download link in the orders section never expires. That’s a massive plus so I don’t have to worry about not being able to get it again should I lose my file.

My original intention was to print it myself and then piece it together but then I realised it was 40-some pages. While some people find this stage to be therapeutic, I’m a bit impatient and if I have time to sew I want to spend it sewing. Decision made, I ordered my printed version from NetPrinter ( It was reasonably priced and the patterns came quickly, printed on lovely thick paper.

The pattern itself is very easy to understand although I did struggle with a few bits. I don’t want to blame the pattern because maybe it was me but I had a few fights with the collar section. It just seemed a bit too short and didn’t want to fit along the neckline edge nicely. I finally settled on a few little tucks being sewn into the seam as the collar was going to be hiding it anyway.

The fabric

I’m sorry to say I don’t have much information about this fabric. It was in a C&H shop, and when I felt how drapey it was I snapped it up for my Penny. At the time I did check the fabric to make sure it was a suitable material, I just can’t remember now. If I had to guess I think it is a viscose because it feels very similar to my Pirate Kalle material. I can remember that it was on sale for £8/metre which made my 3.2m purchase a very reasonable expense! It washed well and after drying can see it doesn’t really crease which is brilliant. For the dress style I want it for anyways!

It was a bit tricky to cut out. As is any slippery fabric. I finally got it into place to cut the large skirt piece and it far overlapped my cutting mat. I didn’t want to move it about, even if I pinned it, so I used my scissors to cut around the skirt portion that wasn’t over the cutting mat. Then I finished the rest with my rotary cutter.

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Belcarra by Sewaholic

Front detail

Pattern: Belcarra by Sewaholic
Fabric: Cotton Gauze “Terrazzo Night by Atelier Brunette” from Guthrie & Ghani
Little Bits: 100m Gutermann sew all thread

Size: 8/8/2 (Graded from size 8 down to 2 between waist and hips)
Version: View B
Mods: None!

The Pattern

It’s a light and airy easy to wear top. The length of the top is spot on however the neckline is a bit wide for me. I prefer a neckline slightly more scooped downwards rather than wide across the shoulder. I think I would make a variation of this top again, however, I would make that alteration to the neckline. Just bringing the neckline in a tad.

The Fabric

This was lovely fabric to work with. Not slippery at all, or thick, just a nice light but still stable material to work with. I would definitely like to use cotton gauze again. I am also interested to see how another cotton gauze compares to this one. It wasn’t a cheap fabric and while I love the print on the shirt I think the fabric was deserving of a more intricate or beautiful pattern rather than the more basic tee-shirt shape I chose to make.

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Stella Hoodie by Tilly and the Buttons

Pattern: Stella Hoodie by Tilly and the Buttons
Fabric: Marble Effect Teal Loopback Cotton Jersey Fabric (1.8m) + Teal Loopback Cotton Jersey Fabric (0.6m) from Guthrie & Ghani
Little Bits: 100m Gutermann sew all thread

Size: 8
Version: N/A
Mods: Lengthed 5cm + FBA of 6.4cm (1.6cm per side)

I have so much love for this project. Both the pattern and the material are absolutely wonderful. I bought the ‘Stretch’ book from Tilly and the Buttons because comfy cozy snuggly clothes? Yes please! Before you carry on reading I should point out I’ve not received any sort of payment or commission for this post. I’m gushing on for ages about it purely based on my enjoyment of sewing this!

The pattern

Firstly, it is such a well-written pattern. The instructions are incredibly clear and the pictures are beautiful! Each step is laid out in easy to understand terms and anything that could be a bit tricky is explained in even greater detail. It’s so nice to just be able to confidently follow the next step, not wondering if you’re about to ruin your project. It’s also printed on lovely thick paper so you don’t have to worry about it disintegrating into shreds of tissue paper after opening it a few times!

Everything comes together perfectly and the fit is spot on. I don’t think there was even a single point of frustration while making this top. This is easily my favourite hoody now!

The fabric

I used a gorgeous marble effect jersey for the main body of the sweater and this really lovely matching teal jersey for the sleeves and hood lining. For the hoody ties, I used a strip of the accent colour.

Will there be another?

There might already be one in the works.. so yes! I intend to have a pile of these made in all sorts of soft and fluffy fabrics. If you haven’t made one yet I highly recommend it. Although I’m sure you have realised that by now!

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Pirate Kalle

Pattern: Kalle by Closet Case
Fabric: Lost At Sea Navy Blue Viscose Fabric from Guthrie & Ghani (1.2m)
Little Bits: 100m Gutermann sew all thread, interfacing, buttons

Size: 8
Version: View A
Mods: Lengthed front & back of view A by 10cm

I absolutely LOVE my first Kalle and before I’d barely even worn it I was already making plans for this one.

When I saw this fabric on Guthrie & Ghani I immediately knew it needed to be a Kalle. A lovely, billowy Kalle with pirate ships on it! Ok, so maybe they are just supposed to be normal ships but I always think pirate ships when I see them…

Pirate Kalle - Fabric
Pirate Kalle – Fabric

Like a good sewer, I prewashed my fabric and interfacing. The latter I slightly regretted because I remembered to do it AFTER I’d cut out all the dried fabric pieces and had to wait until the interfacing had dried to iron it on for step 1! I suppose it’s better, in the long run, to make sure the interfacing won’t shrink. It’s so frustrating when you just want to jump on the sewing machine!

Initially, I lay my pieces out as suggested by the pattern. I then sit and rearrange them until I’ve made the absolute best use of fabric I can think of. It’s a nice little sense of achievement to end up with a single larger piece leftover rather than scraps. I did start to wonder, what am I going to do with all these leftovers that are piling up… So I thought, hey, I’ll be clever and order less this time. Turns out 1.2m for a lengthened view A (which calls for 1.8m before my extension) is a wee bit of a stretch.

Pirate Kalle - Pieces cut out
Pirate Kalle – Pieces cut out

Somehow I managed to make it work with the scariest, smallest amount of leftovers I’ve ever had. I needed to ditch the full collar I’d originally planned and swapped in the band collar but I still managed my full hidden button placket! My hidden button placket was the last piece to cut out and I was fully mentally prepared to somehow cut it using two pieces of fabric and sew them together but my last piece ended up being EXACTLY the length it needed. No joke, I didn’t need to trim any off the top or bottom, it was the perfect length.

Would I try this again with 1.2m, probably not no… maybe 1.3m or 1.4m 🙂 That’s another thing I love about buying from Guthrie & Ghani, they sell in 10cm increments so you aren’t forced to buy a full metre when you don’t need it.

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Kalle by Closet Case : My first Kalle

Pattern: Kalle by Closet Case
Fabric: Crepe // “Bouquet Des Fleurs” from Guthrie & Ghani (1.8m)
Little Bits: 100m Gutermann sew all thread, interfacing, buttons (etsy, from ages ago and can’t remember shop name sorry!)

Size: 8
Version: View A but with shirt collar
Mods: Lengthed front & back of view A by 10cm

This top is incredible. Kalle is very rewarding to sew and the end result is a beautifully drapey easy to wear shirt. This was a lot of firsts in sewing techniques for me. My first collar, first yoke style shirt, and first button band. Of course, because apparently, I don’t like to go easy on myself, I also did my first hidden button placket. The pattern was very easy to understand and I somehow got through all of it with results that even I couldn’t nitpick! I knew as soon as I was done I was going to make another.

Kalle by Closet Case: Close up of button placket
I have to say the scariest bit was probably the burrito rolling method of attaching the yoke. It’s clever, and I had already done a similar thing when sewing facing to the neckline of a shirt, but it feels so unnatural. Like I’m about to sew all my hard work into an enclosed roll of despair.

Kalle by Closet Case: Close up of hem

The only bit of the pattern I remember having an issue with was the sleeves. It doesn’t say in the printed pattern that you unfold the freshly pressed sleeve & only sew one layer to the shirt, then fold over the other half to the inside, where it then ends up hiding the seams. I won’t go into more detail here because the guides Heather from Closet Case pattern has written are excellent and well worth a read.

Here is a link to the sew along/guides for Kalle by Closet Case:
I highly recommend pouring yourself a coffee and reading through all of them before you start. They are well written with lots of helpful imagery.

So there we are! My first Kalle by Closet Case done and I’ve already started another.